Kharanne (Italian Edition)
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The detail is incredible. Lions, elephants, gazelles and a rhinoceros are being captured in dramatic scenes. There is even a tiger being ingeniously caught by using a mirror to lure it into a trap. You could spend days here and still not take in all the detail of these ancient artworks.
The fact that you can still see them is largely down to luck. After the fall of the Roman Empire, the villa continued to thrive until the medieval period until a major earthquake struck the area in The earthquake destroyed parts of the building and also caused a mud slide, covering the entire area of the former Roman villa. There the mosaics lay buried and protected from both people, sunlight and natural decay. For years they lay undisturbed until archeologists unearthed them. What lay under the layer of mud must have come as a surprise, and what a surprise.
Breathlessly, we arrived at the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale, St Mary of the Stairs, a 13th-century Gothic church given a Baroque makeover after the earthquake of which flattened much of the original city. The climb to the church is worth the effort when you turn around. I challenge anyone not to be wowed by the superb views across to Ragusa Ibla and over the surrounding countryside. Like too many churches on our trip, St. You have to time your visit well to arrive when churches are open in Sicily, even the cathedral in Ragusa only opens for limited periods.
We started our descent on the road, but occasionally dived down narrow stairways or cobbled alleys to explore the nooks and crannies of this fascinating place.
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There are tremendous views to be had between the tall houses as you tumble downwards to reach the Church of Santa Lucia. The small square in front of the church offers panoramic views, some of the most iconic in Ragusa. We spotted metallic figures of people climbing a nearby hill, a nod to a local legend that claims the treasures of the town were buried on a hilltop to stop them falling into the hands of the invading Arabs. Treasures that have yet to be found. This part of Ragusa Superiore was built following the earthquake that destroyed the ancient town of Ragusa Ibla.
The devastation was almost total and a decision was taken to build a new town on the hill opposite the original town. Instead, they decided to rebuild their former palaces, churches and houses in the Baroque style. Ragusa Ibla dates back to the Ancient Greeks, and was a thriving urban centre during Roman and Byzantine times. It continued to be an important economic hub during the years of Arab occupation before the 11th century conquest by the Normans, after which it was a provincial capital in the Kingdom of Sicily.
This epic history can still be glimpsed as you wander the streets of Ibla, or more conveniently in the archeological museum. The gardens have a lovely avenue of palm trees, three attractive churches none of which was open , and, best of all, sweeping views across the countryside. We sat on a bench in the shade and watched the world not go by, before heading back into the maze of Ibla. Unbeknown to us, we had timed things well because all the churches suddenly seemed to be open … finally.
The spectacular collection of tightly packed houses, churches and 17th century palaces cling impossibly to the sides of a steep hill. The baroque architecture, bathed in the early morning sunlight, is a magnificent sight. No, that accolade goes to the donkey salami we were served along with a glass of local white wine while we sat admiring the exquisite Cathedral of San Giorgio.
Donkey features regularly on the menus of Ragusa, I drew the line at one restaurant which was serving a daily special of roasted donkey ribs. Duomo di San Giorgio. Ragusa, Sicily, Italy. I would go as far as to say that Ragusa is worth visiting just to sample some of its restaurants.
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Our room at the top of the house had fantastic views over the tiled roofs of the town towards the 18th century part of Ragusa Superiore, and was furnished with original art nouveau furniture. Better still, the breakfast of homemade jams and other local delicacies was the best of our trip.
Elena, who runs the place, was fabulous. Infomercial ends. Map in hand, we headed into the warren of streets to find lunch. How times have changed. The history of Marzamemi has a strong connection with tuna, dating back to the 11th century when Sicily was controlled by the Arabs.
Near the small port you can find the Tonnara, the building where tuna were processed. Alas, no more. We opted for fresh fish and a glass of a chilled local white. The sun was shining and we sat in the shade outside listening to the waves. Lunch was delicious, and afterwards we walked back through the more modern village, which seemed largely closed for the season. Back in the car we headed south, or at least tried to. Smyth also ventured down this same stretch of coastline, passing the Vecchia Tonnara di Portopal, another tuna processing plant, the ruins of which can still be seen today — ironically next to a luxury hotel built like a castle.
Smyth was, again, less than flattering about this southerly point of Sicily. In Sicily he produced many hydrographical charts which were still in use in the midth century. Here he was also introduced to the science of astronomy, and when he retired from the navy he studied the stars — an area of the moon is named after him. Noto is a town that tends to bring out the superlatives. Following the devastating earthquake of , which laid waste many towns and villages across this region, Noto lay in ruins.
It was decided to abandon the old medieval town and start again on a hill about 10 kilometres away. Some of the finest architects of the age were employed to design the new Noto, and what emerged from disaster is a masterclass of earlyth century Baroque town planning. The street — pedestrianised — is flanked by utterly magnificent palaces, imposing churches and small squares, all done in a riot of Baroque architecture.
We arrived in the town in the mid-morning, but it seemed like things were still just getting going, that included other tourists, who were noticeable by their absence. We started our day at a small cafe with coffee and traditional Sicilian brioche — sweet enough to dissolve teeth — in a small square bathed in sunlight and watched as the town came to life. It has the effect of making you feel pretty small and insignificant, a impression that only gets stronger as you climb the stairs to the huge doorway into the cavernous interior.
The views across the valley from the entrance are wonderful. Completed in , the cathedral is a Baroque delight, but it has only survived into the 21st century with a lot of help. In the huge cathedral dome collapsed, largely as a result of failing to properly fix damage from an earthquake in We emerged back into the brilliant Sicilian winter light and made our way to two more exquisite examples of the Baroque.
It was magnificent and gave us a real sense of the size and scale of the cathedral. The Church of St. Francis of Assisi, Noto, Sicily, Italy. Search for:. Bear in a train station, Berlin. Enkhuizen Netherlands. Oosterscheldekering, Delta Works, Zeeland, Netherlands. Windmills, Schiedam, Netherlands.
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